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Posted on 22 July 2016

working with silver | blingsense

Silver is a huge part of jewelry making and where
many designers start their journey..

The jewels would’t be existing without the development of metallurgy and the art of metal extraction, the fossil of the cleaning of the mixing and processing, in a way that meets the needs and the imagination of the jewelry designers..

The main precious and non-precious metals that are taking place in the manufacturing of jewelry are iron, copper, zinc, tin, natural silver and gold, and they will be featured in a series of blog posts on blingtalks.

With silver’s importance in mind, we thought we would pay a little attention to the fundamentals of working with silver and explore a few key areas. Whether you are a jewelry designer or not, I think you’ll find this article particularly interesting..


The journey

Every piece of jewelry makes its own journey till it reaches blingsense. Sketching is step one. The designers send the sketches through, and explain a little bit more about the specific technique that they will follow. Of course every piece of jewelry is unique and should be treated differently. But we will focus on the crafting techniques that have been applied to our current products and our collections in the near future.


Silver

Phase: solid
Density near r.t 110.49gr /cm3 when liquid, at m.p : 9.320g/cm3
Boiling Point: 2435 K (2162 °C, 3924 °F)
Heat of fusion: 11.28kJ/mol
Heat of vaporisation: 254kJ
Melting Point: 221 Ό°C


Categories

Silver categories | blingsense

Fine silver has a millesimal fineness of 999. Also called pure silver, or three nines fine, fine silver contains 99.9% silver, with the balance being trace amounts of impurities. This grade of silver is used to make bullion bars for international commodities trading and investment in silver. In the modern world, fine silver is understood to be too soft for general use. 

Sterling silver has a millesimal fineness of 925. The sterling silver alloy is 92.5% pure silver and 7.5 per cent copper or other metals.

Silver Plated
A high level of plated coating. Most often, silver plating relates  to jewelry, but other items can also be covered in a thin layer of silver.

Eco Sterling Silver is produced from recycled scrap silver in a totally traceable and fully audited process. It is still sterling silver so it feels and works just the same – all whilst being good for the planet! 


Steps of Silver Jewelry Making

There are basically only five steps from the design in your mind to a silver ring on your finger — or any other piece of silver jewelry. Many silver jewelry-making projects won’t even require all five steps. However.. creating handcrafted silver jewelry is an extraordinary and well-thought process.

Steps of silver making | blingsense

1. Soldering


The more we work with a torch, the more comfortable we'll get with it. There is a fine difference between an oxidizing (hissing), reducing (full yellow), and neutral (yellow-tipped) flame; how to move the flame at just the right speed and just the right height as you pass over your silver jewelry piece to heat it; how much flux to use to adequately protect your piece but not make a mess of your fire brick; just the right spot to place your bits of solder and what it looks like when it melts and when it flows; and how to determine the temperature of your metal by the appearance of the flux.

Tip for designers: Turn on your Crock-Pot of pickle solution (pH Down and water) when you start a silversmithing project or a workday at your bench; then the pickle will be hot and ready to clean your silver jewelry projects when you're ready for it. Pickle cleans silver jewelry pieces before and after soldering.


2. Filling
The hardest part about filing is remembering which direction to move the file.. Hint: It's not like filing your nails! Don't go back and forth—file only in one direction! Files are generally flat or half-round, and they are sized by number; the higher the number of the file, the finer the cut it will make.Tip for designers: If you can only buy one file, buy a #2 file; it's a good, almost-all-purpose, medium-tooth file. For finer work,  move up to smaller-tooth #4 and #6 files.

3. Sawing
The keys to successful metal sawing are to have a good saw with the best blades and to master an effective sawing technique! Start with a 2/0 saw blade for best all-around use,
and move on to a 4/0 once you get the hang of it..

4. Metalworking
A rawhide or plastic mallet can bend and form metal into just about any shape we like, around a ring, bracelet, or neck mandrel—or any curved surface hard enough to receive the blows. Silversmithing hammers are available with just about any texture..
Tip for designers: Practice the hammering, texturing, and other metal-forming aspects of silversmithing on less expensive metals such as copper and then move onto silver when you're familiar with what effect each hammer creates. Dapping blocks are like molds that help you turn flat pieces of metal into domed pieces of metal—that's simple enough, right? Right. Next!

5. Finishing (Texturing, Burnishing, Buffing, Polishing, Patinating)
Different designs require different finishes; Mirror   finish, satin finish and using hammering are some of the basic methods to achieve texture. After soldering, when there isn’t a need to file some more.. sand a bit, and clean off any firescale that the pickle left behind.

Sometimes, more texture to the silver jewelry designs can be added at this point. The next step in finishing the silver jewelry by using a rouge and a buffing wheel to polish the silver to a smooth, perfect shine. Whether a patina is added to the designs with liver of sulfur or through some other means, this optional step can create an antiqued look, enhance texture and details, and completely change the look of shiny white silver to dark..



Silver jewelry can't be missing from blingsenseYou can find different types of silver jewelry in our gallery..

Can you spot the differences that we talked about?

Planets in orbit | blingsense

  Solar System
  The technique that Eleni used for the solar
  system collection is the following: the semicircles
  were cut with saw and filed afterwards. Next,
  they calcined in the burner and hammered in a
  metal mold, which has semicircles ( it is called
  dice). Next, the two semicircles are put together
  with silver soldered. Finally, the wire has been
  applied and then the final finishing. 




swing | blingsense

  Solbuer
  In this collection, Zefi, has used silver leafs,
  which was cut and file with in order to get their  
  final shape.


 

 

 

 


 The following collections that are coming up on our website in the following months, are very unique and the techniques that have been applied are one of the reasons you should be looking forward to seeing them! (repoussé, technical retiqulation with enamel, silver 925 sheets cut and tie semiprecious stones).

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